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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.